Autumn Coat Guide

The gentleman's coat: a guide to choosing and tailoring it

As a modern gentleman, you know how much your appearance can matter at business meetings. A fleece jacket may be practical for outdoor activities, but it is not the right choice for a business meeting. So how do you navigate styles, colours and materials to find a coat that complements a business or smart casual outfit?

Colour

Since many men own only one or two winter coats, it makes sense to choose versatile colours such as black, grey or navy. Camel has also become a popular way to brighten a winter wardrobe. We recommend a plain colour or subtle texture for the most flexible use.

Fastening

If you are choosing between single- and double-breasted coats, a double-breasted style will keep you warmer and more comfortable on very cold days. It looks especially good on tall, slim figures.

The cut

First decide what you will wear beneath your coat: a suit jacket for formal occasions or perhaps just a jumper for a smart casual look. A coat worn over a jacket needs more room at the shoulders to accommodate the jacket's structure. Coats worn with suits are generally longer, often reaching the knee, while less formal coats may end around mid-thigh. Check the sleeve length too: the coat sleeve should be at least as long as the jacket and shirt sleeves to keep out the cold. A made-to-measure coat can provide a comfortable fit. 

How do you pair blazers with trousers and shirts to create both classic and bolder combinations? Read our article A blazer: ideal for an informal meeting. 

Fabric

Choose your coat fabric for the season in which you plan to wear it. For wet autumn weather, a cotton trench coat with a water-repellent finish can work well through autumn and spring; navy or beige are classic choices.

Read our article on water-repellent autumn coats: The Trench Coat: a Wardrobe Essential.

For a winter coat, consider 100% wool or a wool-and-cashmere blend for warmth. The article recommends fabrics around 500–600 g/m for winter coats. Mohair can also be useful because of its resistance to wear and tendency to pill less, helping your coat last longer.  

Durability and price

A coat should last as many as five seasons and protect you from bad weather, so we recommend investing in the best one your budget allows. If you are considering a new coat, our style consultants can help with the colour, fabric and cut. 

Which shoes belong in a well-rounded wardrobe? Our guide explains how to cover different occasions without filling your shoe rack. 

The most important rule

Above all, your coat must fit well. In many cases, a made-to-measure coat will be a better choice than an off-the-rack one. A well-fitting wool or cashmere coat can serve you for many seasons; if you choose carefully, one versatile coat may be enough.