Eleven Suit Style Mistakes

A suit can fit you perfectly. Yet sometimes one looks as though it belonged to a younger brother — or like a sack of potatoes.

A made-to-measure suit may spare you many of these problems. If you have bought one off the rack, watch for the following fit issues. A skilled tailor can fix some; others are harder to put right.

The first part of our shirt series, How to Make Your Shirt Look Its Best is available here.

1. The jacket must fit at the shoulders

A good jacket starts with the shoulders. Its shoulder pads should neither extend past your natural shoulders nor fall short of them.

Some jackets have poorly set sleeves. They should fall smoothly from the shoulder without folds or fabric pulling.

Three diagrams showing different jacket fits at the shoulders and lapels.

2. Trousers should be neither too tight nor too loose

Well-fitting trousers should not dig in at the seat or hang loosely from you.

Three diagrams showing different trouser fits at the seat.

3. Too tight or swimming in fabric

When the jacket is buttoned, the lapels should not bunch up and the button should not pull. A jacket that is too large can make you look boxy.

Three diagrams showing jackets in different sizes and how they button.

4. Keep your sleeves out of the soup

At least 1.5 cm of shirt cuff should show beneath the jacket sleeve — but do not overdo it.

Three diagrams comparing jacket sleeve lengths with a shirt cuff.

5. The jacket should cover your seat

As a rule, a jacket should cover your seat. Shorter cuts may be fashionable at times, but the hem should not leave it exposed.

Three side-view diagrams showing different jacket lengths.

6. Are your trousers ready for a flood?

Václav Havel made many Czech men wary of trousers that look too short. Some now go too far in the other direction, with hems so long they tread on them and risk damage.

With slim suit trousers and colourful socks, a shorter hem can suit the look. Havel's trousers were much wider.

Three diagrams showing different trouser lengths over shoes.

7. The collar should neither bunch nor stand away

The jacket collar should sit close to the neck without a gap. Rounded shoulders or an unusual posture can make this harder to achieve.

Improving posture or trying a different suit brand may help close the gap.

Three diagrams showing different jacket collar fits at the neck.

8. Watch the fit around the waist

If you carry extra weight around the waist, your proportions may call for an individual approach from a tailor and a made-to-measure suit.

Comparison of a jacket that buttons smoothly and one that pulls at the waist.

9. Poorly set sleeves

A sleeve should fall smoothly along the arm rather than bunch up.

Two diagrams showing different jacket shoulder fits.

10. Back to the shoulders

It really is essential that a suit fits at the shoulders.

Two diagrams showing different jacket shoulder lines.

11. Sleeves and alterations

Sleeves should hang straight, without folds or bunching.

A skilled tailor can adjust sleeve length, but the sleeves must fit correctly at the shoulders. Shortening by more than 4 cm may affect the position of a button.

Two diagrams comparing a smooth jacket sleeve with a wrinkled one.

The most important rule

Above all, a suit must fit well. In many cases, it is better to choose a made-to-measure suit than one off the rack. Choose a fabric that works with the clothes you already own, making them easier to combine. If you need help choosing fabric or creating more coordinated outfits from fewer pieces, our SMART Wardrobe service may appeal to you.