Ten Rules for Men’s Formal Style

A well-fitting outfit makes a strong first impression. These ten familiar style principles help you keep the details of formal dress in balance.

1. Show a little shirt cuff

A shirt cuff should show below the jacket sleeve, usually by about 1.5 cm. Both sleeves should sit smoothly so that the line of the arm looks clean.

Man in a navy three-piece Cavalier suit outdoors

2. Leave the bottom jacket button undone

On a traditionally buttoned suit jacket, leave the bottom button open. The cut is generally designed to hang more comfortably this way and gives the outfit a more relaxed line.

 


For a closer look at pricing, read our guide to the cost of a made-to-measure suit and what affects it.


Detail of a teal Cavalier suit jacket and waistcoat

3. Match socks to the occasion

White socks with black formal shoes are usually best avoided. Choose socks long enough that your legs stay covered when you sit down.

4. Use colour thoughtfully

Colourful socks can add personality, particularly with shorter, slim-cut trousers.

Man in a beige blazer, checked waistcoat and jeans

5. Choose a bow tie

A self-tied bow tie has a character of its own. Black or white is traditional with formal eveningwear; for daytime occasions, colour offers room to experiment.

Groom in a black tuxedo with a bow tie

6. Get the tie length right

The tip of the tie should reach the top of the belt buckle.

7. Balance tie and lapel widths

The width of a tie often looks best in proportion to the jacket lapels. Slim lapels suit a narrower tie, while wider lapels can carry a wider one.

Man in a navy blazer with a striped tie and pocket square

8. Add a pocket square

A pocket square can add a considered detail to a relaxed outfit. It need not match the tie exactly; a complementary colour or pattern often looks more natural. Wear one with a suit, sports jacket or blazer, with or without a tie.

Man in a burgundy blazer and blue waistcoat


For more on pocket squares, see our article “The pocket square: an elegant detail”.


9. Consider the belt

A belt in a colour that works with the shoes, watch strap and bag brings the accessories together.

Man in a beige suit beside a white scooter


For advice on choosing and matching a belt, read “How to choose the right belt”.


10. Keep everything clean

Even a well-fitting suit and fine leather shoes lose their impact if they are dirty. Regular care for the clothes and shoes makes a difference.


For more on looking after shoes, read “How to care for leather shoes”.


Brown leather shoes, belt and shoe-care products

These ten points offer a starting place for anyone building a formal wardrobe. With practice, attention to the details becomes second nature.

Style should also be enjoyable and personal. Use the rules as a foundation, then experiment to find combinations that feel like your own.

Man in a beige jacket and grey checked trousers

Explore the Cavalier blog for more advice on formal dress and ways to develop your personal style.

Whether you are new to formal clothing or looking for fresh ideas, there is more to discover. 

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